About Me

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Whimsy comes in many forms and if you are lucky enough to encounter even one of them, your life will change forever. Jedi Queen is one of those whimsical creatures. She spends her entire life living on the edges. Growing up off the grid she lived the hippy life before it became main stream. After high school she left the farm for more concrete pastures and bucked her anarchist roots for post secondary values. A Master's degree in Clinical Social work and another in Art Therapy lead to private practice as an Existential Sherpa. To her parent's horror she married a doctor and settled into a life of suburban banality which lasted all of six months. Now days Jedi Queen and the Good Doctor divide time between their yorkie minions and ancient obese cat with epic overland adventuring. You can take the girl from the wild but you can't take the wild out of the girl!
Showing posts with label camping. Show all posts
Showing posts with label camping. Show all posts

Monday, 20 October 2014

Finding Your Heart in Armenia


There is something undecidedly wonderful when you find yourself falling in love in an unexpected way.  A situation, a place, a person (or two!) all converge to make what was suppose to be a quick side trip from the destination into a moment of discovery.  This is how I feel about Armenia – a country so riven with psychological baggage it is a wonder it survives at all.  In a place where difference and justified rage could very well take hold in insidious ways here is a country that is stunningly beautiful with a people whose fierceness is tempered by a love for life and an overwhelming desire to move forward from the past. 

We spent three days in the capital of Yerevan.  It is a city that is pushing its way into “Euro-ness” but in a way that remains distinctly Armenia.  As one of the oldest cities on the Silk Road (its beginnings traced to around 8 BC), Yerevan is committed to embracing both the old and the new.  Public parks, street cafes, live theatre and modern art galleries envelope the city in creativity and zest.  This city wants to remain and become beautiful but is trying to do so without gimmicky ostentatious fakery.  There are a few places where “North Americanization” has crept in but I get the sense that its tentacles are not going to get far.  Armenia is filled with the young and the young are hopeful.  That hope excludes the desire for consumerism and a strong need to hold hands with their neighbours.  The city was setting up the annual Silk Road Music Festival that would run for 7 days.  During this time, the millenials of Georgia, Turkey, Azerbaijan and Iran gather for a week of singing, dancing, loving and connection.  “During this week,” explains our Armenia guide, “We come together and love, dance, and sing.  We know that soon it will be us who make the decisions and our decision is that we want to move forward and make our world a better place together.”  It was fascinating to listen to how young people here view Armenia’s tragic past.  “We know there was a genocide.  We know there is war with Azerbaijan and us.  But WE (the 25 and under crowd) did not do any of those things to each other and we know that.  When we get together with others our age from other countries we all think the same – that we are the same! – and we want a better life than one where our countries fight all the time for stupid reasons.  What’s done is done.  Let’s move on!”  <gush! >  I listen to this and I realize that being a grown up is often highly over rated.  We clearly complicate things more than we should and the older we get the more set in our ways we become including an often burning desire to never let go of old ideals or perceived wrongs.

Armenia also posses some of the most beautiful landscapes I have ever seen.  Driving through it I was struck by how wonderfully medival it all looked.  Tiny villages built on the sides of mountains, green forests peppered with the colors of autumn.  Mountain mists and ancient monasteries.  Much of Armenia’s ancient past has been destroyed but you cannot take away her untamed spirit or her wild nature.  If the driver’s here weren’t so crazy I’d say this is a premier country to road cycle or ride a motor cycle through.  Well, maybe the driver’s aren’t the issue.  Maybe it is really the fact that you will have a hard time staying focused on the road when so much beauty abounds J

And speaking of driving…

While were were in Yerevan it was common for us to walk all day and evening and by night, we would catch a taxi back to our hotel.  This proved to be an interesting experience in that our hotel (and its address) were both unheard of by anyone driving a taxi.  The process usually involved us having to ask 4 or 5 taxis if they could take us to the Olympia Hotel.  We show them the card and Ken shows them on his phone GPS where it is.  They look.  The ask a few other drives parked near by and then they come back and say no.  Finally we get someone who will agree to take us but has no idea where they are going.  This means Ken has to navigate in the back with his GPS trying to direct a guy who does not speak English (and we are not even sure if he can read to be honest) to our hotel.  Armenia taxi drivers are CRAZY.  It was not out of the ordinary to see 4 or 5 taxi/motor vehicle accidents on the road each night as we made our way back.  And we are not talking minor fender benders – they are full on head on collisions! 


Our final night in Armenia had us camp on a mountain side near an old monastery.  We began this trip in unbearable heat and by that night, we could see our breath and woke up to frost.  The hilly pasture was now slick with icy dew and our truck was just not “agile” enough to manage it.  Two hours later, with the help of an old Russian military vehicle we began to inch our way down the mountain through pristine grasslands being ripped to shreds from our intrusion.  It was a decidedly awkward moment of awareness.  The realisation that wherever you go you leave foot prints and an impression – no matter how well intentioned you are.

Monastic Mountain Beauty - Armenia

Where the Spirit is Strong - Armenia

My Armenia Dylan whose pants I covet!

Love in Yerevan

Bovine Wonderland - Armenia

The Cross of Crosses for all those we remember...

Fabulous Fountain at the Modern Art Museum in Yerevan

FROG SOUP!

Getting my healthy dose of Holy Water (and dysentery!)

Ken's Little Foal Friend at Camp - Armenia

Doing what he loves...

Calgarians - LOOK FAMILIAR?

Post Sob Latte Moment, Yerevan

Memorial of Letters of a Language almost lost

Perfect camp site

Literary Street Art in Yerevan

The Shepard who bid me good morning from my tent

Laughing at the Insanity in Yerevan

Ken with his Armenia Park Posse

Windmills of my Blown-Glass Mind, Yerevan

Words are like stone...

Thursday, 16 October 2014

Trying to BEE in Georgia



Being authentic is the best thing you can do for yourself.  It is also the worst because authenticity isn’t exactly what everyone around you is looking for.  Much like climate change, everyone knows it’s there but the work and sacrifice it requires is daunting.  Life is hard.  Why make it harder?  Why not just focus on the good while the going is great?  Why not just remain in blissful denial?  It is – for better or worse – a hell of a lot easier.  Authenticity, after all, requires honesty.  Honesty requires vulnerability.  Vulnerability requires pain.  Pain removes Ego.  And then all you are left with is you…

Last night as Ken and I walked back to our hotel, he asked me, “When we get home and all this is over, what do you think you will say about this trip?  If you knew that it was going to be like this would you have gone?’  These are deceptively easy queries but ones that are far too complicated to answer in trite form.  A good journey should change you in a profound way.  I am slowly coming to recognize that the profoundness required for that change is not one that is meant to be pleasant.  Authenticity means you will own your true self and no longer be afraid to show it.  It also means that you will have to deal head on with the fact the people are not going to like it.  They really are not going to like it.  Authenticity means you will never feel so strong about who you are and so deflated by what that means all at the same time.

A few days ago our group became aware of the “Rage” post on the blog.  It was morning at a homestay and as I made my way to the common area for breakfast I could sense that something was afoot.  There were whispers and side-glances.  My name filtering through a few times and a group member rushing about with his iPad trying to find our driver and tour leader.  As I poured my coffee, our driver and tour leader marched up to me and said, “OK!  Outside now!  We need to talk!”  I was hurriedly rushed down and out the door and so began a very thorough “undressing” of myself and my blog.

Needless to say – it was intense.  I don’t know how long this went on for but it felt like forever.  I remained stoic and respectful.  I reassured our tour leader I did not hate her and that I haven’t even had a chance to get to know her on this trip.  When our driver asked me if I would commit to no longer writing I calmly said “I need to speak to Ken about this first but no, I don’t see myself not writing.”  This sounds like I was strong in my being and committed to my right to be authentic and be heard and all that other heroic rhetoric that goes along with taking a stand.  Truth is, my autonomic nervous system had just completely shut down and I was breaking out in an ice cold sweat.  I knew I was going to throw up in about 10 seconds so really, I was just being a rabbit in the jaws of a wolf – I went limp and placid and hoped I could make it to safety before I completely left my body.

I somehow made it back upstairs to our room where Ken had been frantically looking for me.  I told him what had happened.  Saying he was furious is an understatement.  I was beyond any emotional response whatsoever.  We tried to eat breakfast.  The woman from the dock incident made a point of getting between the serving table and us to announce “GOOD MORNING” in a cheerful voice.  It was odd and unsettling.  Later on we would find out why.

It was a long silent truck ride to our camp.  When we arrived our tour leader announced that Ken and I wanted a group meeting to discuss some things openly and that until the meeting was over, everyone was to refrain from drinking.  I immediately felt ill with fear and utter confusion.  I had not asked for or wanted a meeting.  Unbeknownst to me, Ken did and he quickly stated that to the group.  I’d like to say that made me feel a bit better but it didn’t.  For the next 90 minutes leading up to this “discussion” the tension was so thick it was uncuttable.  I did my camp chores and went to bed.  By now, my head was throbbing, my heart was breaking, and my stomach was churning.  Eating had become harder over the past few weeks and now it was simply impossible.

The meeting was held and Ken came to bed. He kissed me and said “I support you and love you more than ever” but he didn’t speak at all about what happened.  I could see in his face that it had not gone as he planned and that he was trying to process it all.  He looked both confused and determined.  Underneath that, I felt a simmering anger…

The following day we arrived in Yerevan (Armenia) and now being in civilization and away from the group we found a coffee shop and proceeded to decompress.  Ken opened up about what happened at the group meeting in last night’s camp.

The group at first was angry I was not there and did not really want to speak to Ken.  But our driver stood up for Ken and said “Well I am interested in what Ken has to say.” 

Some group members remained silent and one spoke from a place of “moderation” but the overall consensus was the following:

My blog was untrue (in all aspects) and was ruining the trip for everyone
My blog was a form of cyber bullying
My blog was badly written and I needed to read blogs that others on the trip were writing to learn how to write a proper one.
I was unhelpful (interestingly, this was not coming from anyone who’s work groups I belonged to)
I acted/wrote like I was better than everyone else

None of these in themselves are bad.  People have a right to their opinions and I am the first to admit that I am not the easiest person to get to know.  I have never been a good “sales person or politician” so working a room with small talk and superficial pleasantries is a never-ending stressful challenge for me.  Being slightly autistic I always avoid eye contact.  I am extremely introverted – and a damaged one at that.  I am a perfect recipe for how to give people the wrong impression by not having to do anything other than be in the same space as they are.  Writing a blog definitely does not help me hide under the covers and simply go away.  I am a writer and writer's are odd.  I let my words fly often untethered and free.  That, I am learning, has some deeply profound pros and cons.

Then things took a darker turn…

One group member flat out lied to the group (and Ken) about an incident where he was talking to another group member and I walked up to him and insulted him publically.  (THIS NEVER HAPPENED!)

The woman who raged at us on the docks looked Ken dead in the eyes and said “I was going to apologize to you the next day but then I talked to some of the group they said I didn’t have to because they agreed with me.”

The partner of the woman who got sick in Baku voiced some strong opinions about what she thought about me-specifically about my blog (none of which were good).  The irony being I have never had a conversation with this person other than a few sentences about her dog and the price of housing in Sydney versus Vancouver.

The meeting ended with the antagonists wanting me to agree to another meeting at next bush camp in 3 days.

After Ken filled me in he said in exasperation, “I honestly don’t know what is going on with this group or why the blog even matters.”  Then he switched into righteous warrior mode.  He was furious about the lie – even more so about the fact that people in the group actually DID support the dock incident.  He felt betrayed by the woman whom we reached out to help when her partner was ill.  He was adamant that I keep writing.  He read and re-read everything I had written and like an exceptional defense lawyer, he prepared himself for the next camp encounter.  I just sobbed into my coffee.

“I know you want to win this one Ken and I know if it comes to that you will.  But this is becoming a  war.  And in war there are casualties.  I’m the one getting shot at. I am bleeding to death out here.  You need to focus on getting me to safety and not bombing the enemy into submission.”

It was defeatist.  Perhaps even cowardly.  But some fights, even if you know you will win, are far too costly in the end.  “If you fight for me Ken it just shows them I am too weak to do it on my own.  And I am.  I can’t afford to be seen as any weaker than I already am.  It makes me a target and I have no where to run to protect myself.”

We sat in silence at the coffee shop.  Then Ken took out his phone and logged onto the Internet.  I watched the man I love go from “We paid good money for this trip and we have a right to enjoy it however we see fit!” to a resigned “I don’t care how much it costs.  I am finding a way to get us home.”

So back to those deceptively easy questions about what would you say and would you do it again.  Back again to authenticity and the real reasons we journey inward and out ward…

No matter how hard it is there is always beauty to be found.  Small beauty like an insignificant red beetle in your hand or large beauty in a monastery hewn into a mountain.  It is hard to be self-pitying when you realize the privilege you have in just being here.  Here in this place.  Here in this life.  I have always found coffee (eventually!) and more than enough cats to love.  I was given the chance to meet an Orthodox monk who dedicates his life to God and his beautiful buzzing ladies who bless him with their sweet nectar.  I’ve tasted grapes sweeter than I’ve ever known and the wine they have produced in exactly the same way for a thousand years.  I’ve crossed deserts, climbed mountains and seen things most will only dream about.  I’ve danced in the rain.  I’ve wept under the stars.  I’ve even hugged a few camels! But most of all, I did all of this with a man I fell in love with all over again.  I could not have asked for a better friend than I found in Ken.  Travel changes you.  Travel tests you.  Travel – when done in the right way – has you come home a different person than you were when you left.  No matter what has come our way his support for me has never waivered and I do believe he sees me differently now – as I see him.  So yes, I would do this a thousand times over and I would say it was the most meaningful journey we’ve ever taken.  Bumps, bruises, angst and all.



BEEhold!  The Queen has arrived!

Getting things tidy for winter

Starter combs made from bee's wax.  Recycle the love!


Found it!!

Etheral beauty at Davit Garaja, Georgia

Spirit among the ruins - Davit Gareja, Georgia

The Grapes of Un-Wrath

Nature's Candy

Grunge Bug Love

Alaverdi Monastery - BEE Heaven!

On my way for some bee love...

Finding Soul in Georgia

Why being a hermit can be a cool thing - Davit Gareja, Georgia

Gorgeous Gremi reflecting back it's love

Keeping it alive and real. xoxo


Sunday, 12 October 2014

Georgia on My Mind

When you’re on the road for so long everything begins to become a blur.  Maybe not a blur but a bleeding into each other like spilt paint on a Jackson Pollock canvas.  Intense splatters of vibrancy mixed with dirt and filth from your shoes.  The canvas going on forever and the work of creating a meaningful image never ending.

So where am I with this giant paint brush called over landing?

We left Baku and headed out for another bush camp in Gobustan – home of the mud volcanoes.  There are a few ways to view this one:  a mud volcano site where we camped or a camp that had mud volcanoes.  How you see it depends on where you look – and how you step!   It’s one of those sites where you make the most of it while there but don’t particularly see yourself making the effort to go again.  It made for good practise in how to gauge where and when you make a move and a chance to see with fresh eyes.

After that it was a rather unceremonious border crossing into Georgia.  Nothing to it!  I kind of felt cheated not having to deal with nonsensical inefficiency, laborious wait times and no toilets.  Sigh.  The days of living in fear that my scissors could be seen as a weapon of mass destruction are now over.  Perhaps I need to consider black market caviar...

Another night camping at the Lagodheki Nature Reserve in Georgia.  My god what a beautiful place!  So much green  So much nature!  Sadly, it was pouring rain so a good hike was out of the question and time was also limited.  Unlike the mud volcanoes this is a definite do over.  Nature is best experienced alone or with the ones you love.  And am I the only one that finds the sound of rain on your tent incredibly soothing?  Even though I know my sleeping bag will be soaked in the morning and I will rue the day I agreed to such misadventure?

Our next stop was Sighnaghi – a mountain town inspired by Italian architecture and oozing romance from its pores.  Being here gave us a welcome break from the “crowd’ and a chance to drift in peace and with coffee.  We found an old “fixer upper” with a spectacular view that I envisioned as an open spaced gallery/coffee bar/book store (with cats!) and a giant living space loft upstairs.  Of course, it means we need to learn Georgian and get in good with the Russian mafia who actually own the town…

Eventually our wandering took us to the old city walls and an abandoned church that appeared to have been reclaimed by Sarah McLachlin's voodoo dolls and suicide poem ex boyfriend.  I don't think there is anything quite like finding a house of God now being used as a squatter's personal shrine to the hereafter.  Old photos, newspaper clippings, candles in various stages of existence and crosses made from retired tree branches. The old cemetery also had spectacular views.  Georgian grave markers always have an image of the one who passed which kind of makes sense really – you feel like you “know” them as you walk by.  It becomes a personal connection between souls.  It makes it that no matter how much time has passed and no matter who comes by, there is a gentle curiosity and a remembrance.  As with all sacred space, the space made for children is the most poignant.  A little boy in a sailor suit.  A young man in his prime with his car.  A teen age girl smiling in a summer dress and heels.  Lives lost before their time but lives remembered in their most joyous moment.

On our way back to town we had a strange encounter with a local woman and her elderly parents.  She offered us a tour of the town but we declined as it was evening.  Her English was quite good and she said she had worked as a translator in Tbilisi but had to return home to care for her parents.  She asked for money to help them out and in return told us this fantastical story about how the wall in town was actually older than the Great Wall of China but that Genghis Khan had come and tore it all down.  She invited us into her home which was STACKED with books and then proceeded to show us her “English Books” that she used to learn the language.  These consisted of a first edition print of “Death and the Maiden”, a Penguin Classic copy of Oliver Twist and a Jacqueline Suzanne-esque novel circa 1971 about a bi-sexual man’s romances in Paris, London as NYC as a fashion photographer.

Then it got weird…

She proceeded to bring out bags and bags of medications and drugs and wanted Ken to tell her what they were and what they were used for.  Then she told us about her research at Oxford university on Agatha Christie and the Use of Cyanide.  She kept saying she was an expert researcher in “detective novels” and that the government now black listed her because of it.  I don’t know.  Seems plausible….  We gave her enough money to buy bread and eggs with Ken feeling somewhat apprehensive about all the drugs she had with Russian labels...


We will be making a four day crossing into Armenia before heading back into Georgia.  Another night of camping BUT three days in Yerevan.  Unlike Africa where camping was the best part we are finding it the hardest part of this journey.  Camp has always been a “tense” aspect of this journey and after the dock incident, the desire to isolate has become even stronger for us.  Ken shared his feelings with Simon on the boat and on that end, he feels heard and understood.  As for the other end?  It has frighteningly gone back to normal in an “this never happened” kind of way…


Here's mud in your eye!


Dragon Scales


Mud Volcano!


Mud avalanche!


Textured


Doing my little thing on the Cat Walk! (Sighnaghi, Georgia)


"I'll take those rib bones and bread on the floor to go please."

Our house in the middle of the street - Sighnaghi, Georgia

Grey Beard and Button Nose

Ken goes for the epic landscape shot from eternity

Cat on a Cool Tile Roof

Little Boy Lost

A bit of Canada in Georgia


Young man look at your life - I'm a lot like you are

Love Among the Ruins in Sighnaghi

Taxi Conga Line - Sheki, Azerbajian

Being an Ass at the Khan's Summer Residence - Sheki, Azerbaijan

Fabulous Georgia Fungi

Reflecting...

"You live in a church where you sleep with voo doo dolls"

Georgian Goodness!

Sheep Wallpaper anyone?

Love in the Mountains of Georgia

The beginning of growing old together

A long and winding road...