About Me

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Whimsy comes in many forms and if you are lucky enough to encounter even one of them, your life will change forever. Jedi Queen is one of those whimsical creatures. She spends her entire life living on the edges. Growing up off the grid she lived the hippy life before it became main stream. After high school she left the farm for more concrete pastures and bucked her anarchist roots for post secondary values. A Master's degree in Clinical Social work and another in Art Therapy lead to private practice as an Existential Sherpa. To her parent's horror she married a doctor and settled into a life of suburban banality which lasted all of six months. Now days Jedi Queen and the Good Doctor divide time between their yorkie minions and ancient obese cat with epic overland adventuring. You can take the girl from the wild but you can't take the wild out of the girl!
Showing posts with label Georgia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Georgia. Show all posts

Saturday, 25 October 2014

Batumi Beach Blanket Bingo!

I am now at the point in the journey where writing anything remotely profound is becoming a struggle.  It has been 12 weeks since I have had organic crunchy peanut butter and far too long since I have had a real bath.  I feel protein deprived and slightly malodorous.  I stopped shaving my legs and arm pits once we left China because shorts aren’t exactly “kosher wear” on the silk road and, quite frankly, I feel it adds to my “holier than thou feminist” presence on the truck.  I would have burned a bra or two at a campfire but I think that would have been the definite tipping point for reinstating witch burning as a legitimate overland pastime.

So back to the shaving…

I did end up having to break out the razor and patchouli soap because our next stop was Batumi, the premiere Georgian Black Sea resort town that is just a hop, skip and a jump from Sochi and right on the border of Turkey.  I need to get back to this place in the summer when it is hopping like Penticton during Peach Festival.  October is great if you want the entire boardwalk to yourself and you want to be the only one at a coffee shop.  Well to be fair, we weren’t the only ones in town.  The USS Mt. Whitney was in port so I had to share the promenade with sailors and Filipino cruise ship personnel.  Yep – living the dream!  We missed the annual “Batumipalooza” (its in August).  The line up was retro impressive – Boney M, Ace of Base, 2 Live Crew and, wait for it…  KENNY G!!   Interspersed with these headliners were a bunch of EuroVision one hit wonders and some Georgian/Russian techno hybids that promised to “dance you into hereafter and back again.”  I bet the jello shots were flowing on the beach that weekend.  Highlight for us was the dancing fountains that make the Bellagio look like something a small child created with nails  and a garden hose.  From 9 pm until midnight this wonderland of lights and hydro-choreography performs to such musical numbers as The Theme from Mission Impossible, The Soundtrack to Lord of the Rings, an assortment of Broadway show tunes and then – the piece de resistance – DONNER SUMMER’S HOT STUFF!!  So there we were– me, Ken, a security guard and two gay sailors dancing ourselves to the hereafter and back on the boulevard in Batumi.  You have to wonder what this would have been like during peak season when Putin stops by…

Batumi - BTW - boasts the most space age awesome McDonalds on the planet.  Check it out here:
Make sure you scroll through the photos.  This is your new one stop shop for burgers, petrol and sailors!

A few days later we crossed the border into Turkey.  A border crossing so uneventful and simple that it is only worth mentioning because it now means we have reached our final country on the silk road.  It also means we have actual toilets when we do a toilet stop and the cost of everything just went up by 400%.  Gone are the days of $5 meals (and those were splurges!).  Major upshot though is getting tea for free at every gas station - much appreciated since the temperature has dropped rapidly these last few weeks.  Our first stop in Turkey was the Sumela Monastery which “overlooks forests and streams, making it extremely popular for its aesthetic attraction as well as for its cultural and religious significance.”  Nice hike up with great views at the top.  Also ran into my “Drago Peeps” while there which is always good for a laugh.  They have an older Belgian lady on their trip who always cracks me up with her blunt honesty.  We ran into her as we were walking back down and she asked, “Is this another one of those dam monasteries carved into rock?  There is only so much destroyed religious heritage a person can take on a trip!”

And finally, you have probably gathered that my/our mood has changed somewhat over the last few entries.  That’s because we have been doing the no more camping happy dance!!  This means I will no longer be bitched out for not lighting a camp stove properly or boiling water fast enough.  It still means I have to endure the back handed comments about how I should be the one who has to clean out the cooler that now smells like  a dead corpse.  Because when you overland, it’s not about who is actually assigned a task, its about who someone else assigns that task to and, of course, their rules on how it should be done.


<cue in Donna Summer…. I’M DANCING!!!!!>

(Oh I almost forgot!  Before we got to Batumi we made a stop at the Prometheus Caves.  Impressive! Almost as impressive as ATM in Belize - almost.  I still have to give ATM top billing because you have to swim in and actually "cave" to do it but Prometheus does not disappoint.  Especially when the tour guide forgets you are still in there and turns all the lights off.  You ever tried to find your way out of a cave using your Android as a light source?  Trust me - you don't want to.  There is not enough Donna Summer or Ativan in the world to recover from that experience.)

*I just realized that i wrote "Donner Summer" instead of Donna Summer.  But you know what?  I am leaving it as it.  Because it wouldn't surprise me at all if this trip ended with us trapped in the mountains having to eat each other while listening to 70's disco music.  I need almond butter STAT!

One of the rare moments when beach chairs are free of Germans

Butane Black Sea Love

Clock Tower in Batumi

Ferris Wheel resting after a long summer of spinning

Down town Batumi

It isn't an overland until there is another wedding!

Tennis Cat says score is LOVE

Prometheus's Jaws

Prometheus's Wings

When graffiti goes bad... (Sumela Monastery)

Sumela Monastary - worth the hike (and the rain!)

Sumela Selfie!  Not our happiest pose but it was raining, we were cold and off in the distance we were distracted by a Starbucks...

Thursday, 23 October 2014

Tbilisi, Gori, Puppets and Stalin

And so the journey continues.. Out of Armenia and back into Georgia. In and out of my comfort zones. Dealing with what to do next and how to handle what may or may not unfold. Struggling to figure out the voice I want to use in all of this – the constant dialectic of is this a travel blog or therapy? I am forever conscious of how I want to find the joy and humour in what we see and how that consciousness struggles with the invasion of its being. Not everyone loves a gypsy!

What better place to ponder all these questions than Tbilisi – capital city of Georgia and home of the giant sanitary napkin bridge. Another in a series of old meets new up and comers that requires far more than two days to fully appreciate. We arrived to find that the access bridge to our hotel was closed for a parade of some sorts. At first we thought it was a political rally but since there was no tear gas or baton beatings in the periphery we ruled that out pretty quickly. Eventually we realized it was some sort of cultural heritage day as many of the people were dressed in historical costumes – kind of like a Georgian Society of Creative Anachronism festival but without the drunken tournament games or the “Vikings” who always end up in fist fights with the Druids.

Tbilisi is one of those places that does a very good job at making it seem like everything is fine. It is cosmopolitan and funky and has that odd mixture of Bolshevik ideals buttressed against the new world order. Underneath is a seedy underworld of organized crime that one gets glimpses of in the Old City center. Upscale “bars” line the alleyways and beautiful young things with deers in the headlights gazes stroll up and down for tender. Enjoying a coffee in an art cafĂ© one can almost be forgiven for neglecting the fact that in 2008, Russia was still laying claims here, which resulted in multiple air bombing attacks. Up on the hills you can see the results of a real estate boom – large gaudy mansions and crazy large scale building projects that seem to revolve solely around who can come up with the least esthetically pleasing architecture coupled with no logical usefulness whatsoever. (Oops! Did I just release my inner Prince Charles?)

Ahh but Tbilisi is still wonderful to walk through and I would not be doing her justice if I did not promote her PUPPET THEATER!! If I ever need a reason to get back it will be because I was not able to take in any of the performances at the Gabriadze Theatre. The “Battle of Stalingrad” and “The Autumn of My Springtime” are on my bucket list of marionette theatre must-sees. I had to sate my puppet passion with lunch at the adjoining cafĂ© that was created “not so people could eat, but so that one single coffee bean could be fried all day long, filling the theatre with its aroma.” (Rezo Gabriadze is my kind of people!)

After Tbilisi it was off to Gori where I was able to complete my “Communist Party” reality tour with a visit to the Stalin Museum. Man, that is one freaky museum. Unlike the Mao museum, you definitely get the sense that the only reason this place even exists is due to the morbid curiosity of western tourists. You have to hand it to the tour guide who for an hour walked us through a homage to psychopathy with a perfectly scripted monologue about a guy who used his gift as an “intellectual poet”(not to mention dude was seriously HOT when he was younger) to seduce a bunch of other guys to help him rob a bank for Lenin and kill 40 people in the process. Off to Siberia where he has lots of time to ruminate on how he could murder millions and become the archetype for all Cult of Personality anti-heroes. Or, as Stalin likes to think of himself - “Gardener of Human Happiness.” Highlight for me was the bit on collective farming that was so beneficial to woman because now they could drive tractors. Thank you Stalin. My John Deere dreams can now come true.

(I've got issues with the formatting right now so excuse the glaring text.  But I am too tired right now to bother with it. !)


The obligatory cat rub stop in Tbilisi

A stroll on the maxi pad bridge

The "Always" Bridge at night

Me in 20 years...

Cat love Old City style

Another Lonely Planet Latte Bliss moment

Tbilisi Dance Biscuits

Puppet Theatre reunion with my homies from Dragoman

Flea Market finds in Tbilisi

Even Gangsters fall in Love

Horsing Around at Camp

Ken climbing the walls...

Future Dance Biscuits

Random camp lizard

Mother Georgia - notice the child bearing hips :-) 

It is law in Tbilisi that one must give up one's lap for a minimum of one hour to a feline resident

The "Other Banksy" tries to promote growth in the Georgian economy

Another random ancient monastery where we camped

Stalin's Death Mask

About to board the "Bolshevik Express"

Admit it - you would have tapped this in college...

Tiles from the Marionettes

Being young and fun

Thursday, 16 October 2014

Trying to BEE in Georgia



Being authentic is the best thing you can do for yourself.  It is also the worst because authenticity isn’t exactly what everyone around you is looking for.  Much like climate change, everyone knows it’s there but the work and sacrifice it requires is daunting.  Life is hard.  Why make it harder?  Why not just focus on the good while the going is great?  Why not just remain in blissful denial?  It is – for better or worse – a hell of a lot easier.  Authenticity, after all, requires honesty.  Honesty requires vulnerability.  Vulnerability requires pain.  Pain removes Ego.  And then all you are left with is you…

Last night as Ken and I walked back to our hotel, he asked me, “When we get home and all this is over, what do you think you will say about this trip?  If you knew that it was going to be like this would you have gone?’  These are deceptively easy queries but ones that are far too complicated to answer in trite form.  A good journey should change you in a profound way.  I am slowly coming to recognize that the profoundness required for that change is not one that is meant to be pleasant.  Authenticity means you will own your true self and no longer be afraid to show it.  It also means that you will have to deal head on with the fact the people are not going to like it.  They really are not going to like it.  Authenticity means you will never feel so strong about who you are and so deflated by what that means all at the same time.

A few days ago our group became aware of the “Rage” post on the blog.  It was morning at a homestay and as I made my way to the common area for breakfast I could sense that something was afoot.  There were whispers and side-glances.  My name filtering through a few times and a group member rushing about with his iPad trying to find our driver and tour leader.  As I poured my coffee, our driver and tour leader marched up to me and said, “OK!  Outside now!  We need to talk!”  I was hurriedly rushed down and out the door and so began a very thorough “undressing” of myself and my blog.

Needless to say – it was intense.  I don’t know how long this went on for but it felt like forever.  I remained stoic and respectful.  I reassured our tour leader I did not hate her and that I haven’t even had a chance to get to know her on this trip.  When our driver asked me if I would commit to no longer writing I calmly said “I need to speak to Ken about this first but no, I don’t see myself not writing.”  This sounds like I was strong in my being and committed to my right to be authentic and be heard and all that other heroic rhetoric that goes along with taking a stand.  Truth is, my autonomic nervous system had just completely shut down and I was breaking out in an ice cold sweat.  I knew I was going to throw up in about 10 seconds so really, I was just being a rabbit in the jaws of a wolf – I went limp and placid and hoped I could make it to safety before I completely left my body.

I somehow made it back upstairs to our room where Ken had been frantically looking for me.  I told him what had happened.  Saying he was furious is an understatement.  I was beyond any emotional response whatsoever.  We tried to eat breakfast.  The woman from the dock incident made a point of getting between the serving table and us to announce “GOOD MORNING” in a cheerful voice.  It was odd and unsettling.  Later on we would find out why.

It was a long silent truck ride to our camp.  When we arrived our tour leader announced that Ken and I wanted a group meeting to discuss some things openly and that until the meeting was over, everyone was to refrain from drinking.  I immediately felt ill with fear and utter confusion.  I had not asked for or wanted a meeting.  Unbeknownst to me, Ken did and he quickly stated that to the group.  I’d like to say that made me feel a bit better but it didn’t.  For the next 90 minutes leading up to this “discussion” the tension was so thick it was uncuttable.  I did my camp chores and went to bed.  By now, my head was throbbing, my heart was breaking, and my stomach was churning.  Eating had become harder over the past few weeks and now it was simply impossible.

The meeting was held and Ken came to bed. He kissed me and said “I support you and love you more than ever” but he didn’t speak at all about what happened.  I could see in his face that it had not gone as he planned and that he was trying to process it all.  He looked both confused and determined.  Underneath that, I felt a simmering anger…

The following day we arrived in Yerevan (Armenia) and now being in civilization and away from the group we found a coffee shop and proceeded to decompress.  Ken opened up about what happened at the group meeting in last night’s camp.

The group at first was angry I was not there and did not really want to speak to Ken.  But our driver stood up for Ken and said “Well I am interested in what Ken has to say.” 

Some group members remained silent and one spoke from a place of “moderation” but the overall consensus was the following:

My blog was untrue (in all aspects) and was ruining the trip for everyone
My blog was a form of cyber bullying
My blog was badly written and I needed to read blogs that others on the trip were writing to learn how to write a proper one.
I was unhelpful (interestingly, this was not coming from anyone who’s work groups I belonged to)
I acted/wrote like I was better than everyone else

None of these in themselves are bad.  People have a right to their opinions and I am the first to admit that I am not the easiest person to get to know.  I have never been a good “sales person or politician” so working a room with small talk and superficial pleasantries is a never-ending stressful challenge for me.  Being slightly autistic I always avoid eye contact.  I am extremely introverted – and a damaged one at that.  I am a perfect recipe for how to give people the wrong impression by not having to do anything other than be in the same space as they are.  Writing a blog definitely does not help me hide under the covers and simply go away.  I am a writer and writer's are odd.  I let my words fly often untethered and free.  That, I am learning, has some deeply profound pros and cons.

Then things took a darker turn…

One group member flat out lied to the group (and Ken) about an incident where he was talking to another group member and I walked up to him and insulted him publically.  (THIS NEVER HAPPENED!)

The woman who raged at us on the docks looked Ken dead in the eyes and said “I was going to apologize to you the next day but then I talked to some of the group they said I didn’t have to because they agreed with me.”

The partner of the woman who got sick in Baku voiced some strong opinions about what she thought about me-specifically about my blog (none of which were good).  The irony being I have never had a conversation with this person other than a few sentences about her dog and the price of housing in Sydney versus Vancouver.

The meeting ended with the antagonists wanting me to agree to another meeting at next bush camp in 3 days.

After Ken filled me in he said in exasperation, “I honestly don’t know what is going on with this group or why the blog even matters.”  Then he switched into righteous warrior mode.  He was furious about the lie – even more so about the fact that people in the group actually DID support the dock incident.  He felt betrayed by the woman whom we reached out to help when her partner was ill.  He was adamant that I keep writing.  He read and re-read everything I had written and like an exceptional defense lawyer, he prepared himself for the next camp encounter.  I just sobbed into my coffee.

“I know you want to win this one Ken and I know if it comes to that you will.  But this is becoming a  war.  And in war there are casualties.  I’m the one getting shot at. I am bleeding to death out here.  You need to focus on getting me to safety and not bombing the enemy into submission.”

It was defeatist.  Perhaps even cowardly.  But some fights, even if you know you will win, are far too costly in the end.  “If you fight for me Ken it just shows them I am too weak to do it on my own.  And I am.  I can’t afford to be seen as any weaker than I already am.  It makes me a target and I have no where to run to protect myself.”

We sat in silence at the coffee shop.  Then Ken took out his phone and logged onto the Internet.  I watched the man I love go from “We paid good money for this trip and we have a right to enjoy it however we see fit!” to a resigned “I don’t care how much it costs.  I am finding a way to get us home.”

So back to those deceptively easy questions about what would you say and would you do it again.  Back again to authenticity and the real reasons we journey inward and out ward…

No matter how hard it is there is always beauty to be found.  Small beauty like an insignificant red beetle in your hand or large beauty in a monastery hewn into a mountain.  It is hard to be self-pitying when you realize the privilege you have in just being here.  Here in this place.  Here in this life.  I have always found coffee (eventually!) and more than enough cats to love.  I was given the chance to meet an Orthodox monk who dedicates his life to God and his beautiful buzzing ladies who bless him with their sweet nectar.  I’ve tasted grapes sweeter than I’ve ever known and the wine they have produced in exactly the same way for a thousand years.  I’ve crossed deserts, climbed mountains and seen things most will only dream about.  I’ve danced in the rain.  I’ve wept under the stars.  I’ve even hugged a few camels! But most of all, I did all of this with a man I fell in love with all over again.  I could not have asked for a better friend than I found in Ken.  Travel changes you.  Travel tests you.  Travel – when done in the right way – has you come home a different person than you were when you left.  No matter what has come our way his support for me has never waivered and I do believe he sees me differently now – as I see him.  So yes, I would do this a thousand times over and I would say it was the most meaningful journey we’ve ever taken.  Bumps, bruises, angst and all.



BEEhold!  The Queen has arrived!

Getting things tidy for winter

Starter combs made from bee's wax.  Recycle the love!


Found it!!

Etheral beauty at Davit Garaja, Georgia

Spirit among the ruins - Davit Gareja, Georgia

The Grapes of Un-Wrath

Nature's Candy

Grunge Bug Love

Alaverdi Monastery - BEE Heaven!

On my way for some bee love...

Finding Soul in Georgia

Why being a hermit can be a cool thing - Davit Gareja, Georgia

Gorgeous Gremi reflecting back it's love

Keeping it alive and real. xoxo