About Me

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Whimsy comes in many forms and if you are lucky enough to encounter even one of them, your life will change forever. Jedi Queen is one of those whimsical creatures. She spends her entire life living on the edges. Growing up off the grid she lived the hippy life before it became main stream. After high school she left the farm for more concrete pastures and bucked her anarchist roots for post secondary values. A Master's degree in Clinical Social work and another in Art Therapy lead to private practice as an Existential Sherpa. To her parent's horror she married a doctor and settled into a life of suburban banality which lasted all of six months. Now days Jedi Queen and the Good Doctor divide time between their yorkie minions and ancient obese cat with epic overland adventuring. You can take the girl from the wild but you can't take the wild out of the girl!
Showing posts with label Turkey. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Turkey. Show all posts

Sunday, 1 February 2015

96 Days.. And the Sleeper now Awakens..

Now seems as good a time as any to end what had begun.  Ninety-six days home after ninety-six days on the road.  God knows, I wanted to write an ending much sooner but when it was over, I wasn’t sure how.  Everything had been so much more than what we had bargained for.  By the end of the journey I was exhausted. Emotionally and physically spent.  I just wanted to get home.  But it never really was over. It weighed on me.  Each passing day another crushing stone on my soul. 

Every day on the road I read and re-read what I had written.  It was a talisman, an anchor.  Writing and reading my story gave it far better meaning than the one I was experiencing.  There was power in making the story my own; claiming the light from the dark.   When I returned I abandoned the story.  I could not revisit it or bear to recall it.  I wanted to banish all the memory of it because to remember brought pain.  So much pain…

All I thought off when I was on the road was how much I wanted to see a friendly face again.   I could not wait until I was home and with the ones I loved.  Once home, I wanted to hide myself forever.  I dreaded seeing anyone for fear they would ask about the trip.  To speak of it made it real and I desperately needed for it to not be.  My story telling had out did itself – the story became everyone’s story.  My story was an awakening for those at home – a chance to live vicariously through a gypsy’s eyes.  No one, least of all myself, understood the cost this awakening would bring.

 I wrestled with the meaning it of it all.  I wrestled with the deep awareness that a journey worth doing is never meant to be easy and that when one is most alone transformation takes place.  I knew there was a purpose to this but I was too raw to embrace it.  So I let the lights go out and spent the next 96 days cocooning in the darkness.

We ended the trip much like we began – knowing nothing of our fellow travelers other than their shadows.  I’ve spent the 96 days since returning wondering what went wrong.  What could I have done to change things?  Over and over I play the scenerio out and always I come to the same answer – all I could have done was not be me.  It was a difficult journey…

I have never been so sure of who I was and at the same time so defeated by that awareness.  I was on a journey where everything I was and was about to become was truth.  No one really prepares you for the final push though – that final bursting from the cocoon.  It is always about how beautiful you wings will be but never about how fragile and vulnerable you are waiting for them to dry.  I hung on the precipice of butterfly fruition and complete annihilation sitting in an overland truck driving the Silk Road. 

Istanbul ended in the back of a windowless van packed with luggage and foes. Crouching on the dirty floor,  I made a feeble attempt at black humor saying this would prepared me for Afghanistan or Syria.  I quickly realized the horrible truth in it.  Trapped, overheated, overwhelmed and exhausted I begged at the next traffic light to be set free.  And there we stood, on the streets of Istanbul.  Alone, nauseated, unable to breath.  We walked the crowded streets to our hotel and slowly I realized that now my wings were ready.  For the next four days I was determined to fly.

It started with a shoeshine.  Three months of dirt and agony wiped clean by a man living in a cardboard house.  His wife smokes openly beside him and screams “FUCK YOU” to anyone who gives her grief for doing so.  For the first time in 96 days I feel like I belong.  I want this shoeshine to last forever. 

Coffee at coffee houses considered the best in the world.  They resided in places no self-respecting tourist would seek out.  I relish in the realization that there is no chance I will run into anyone from the journey here.  There is far too much color plus everyone smiles.  Sitting sipping coffee I hold the pieces of my shattered self in my hands.  A million tiny souls waiting to be stitch into a whole human being again.  Any journey worth doing will require you to break.  That’s the irony of it all – transformation only happens when what you didn’t prepare for happens.  Or more to the point, when everything you think you know goes “tits up” and all you are left with is yourself and a shit load of self doubt. 

I am still struggling to make sense of it all.  I know I am not the same person I was before I left.  I seem to be existing in a simultaneous state of profound grief and joy.  I lost so much of myself on this journey and yet I find myself feeling unburdened by it all.  It seems les about what I have lost and more of what I am becoming.  You have to become “something” in end.  It’s ether that or you die. All those broken pieces become a masterpiece of a jigsaw puzzle waiting to be made.

There are worse things in the world than being stuck on a truck for 96 days.  While I was on my journey others were on theirs – job loss, infertility, divorce, diagnoses, death.  All things that would not end in 96 days and certainly not conducive to pupating into a butterfly.  The first thing an awakening teaches you is humility.  I’d like to say the second is grace but I’m not there yet.  Now that I am home and my wings are almost ready I find myself wishing I was a fire-breathing butterfly so no one sees it coming…  So maybe the second thing I am learning is anger.  Not the self-destructive kind but the motivating kind.  The kind where you find yourself staring in the mirror yelling, “I AM THE MOST AMAZING GOD DAM BUTTERFLY IN THE UNIVERSE” and you start thinking about where in the world you will fly to next.

So this is the end and this is the beginning.  This journey is now over to make room for the next.  I wanted to say good-bye to the Silk Road so I could say Hello to the next adventure(s).

Hello Wainwright Trail  
Hello India


Hello world. Get ready.  You’re about to meet the most amazing fire-breathing butterfly EVER.

Nothing like being blue at the Blue Mosque

Who I should have been travelling with on the Silk Road...

Nothing says Istanbul like a Whirling Dervish Rave

Fishing for compliments on a Sunday Afternoon

The fish sandwich I should have had instead of the crap one at midnight the night before

Simetry

The second best thing next to coffee

The Dialectic that this Istanbul

I waited 96 days for this!!

Joy can always be found in a cup

Always go where there is color

Antioxidant Heaven

Hanging with my Peeps

Turkish Baristas - need  I say more

Always find the familiar after a traumatic event

The freedom to swing however I want

Lattes come with cats

I LOVE THIS PLACE!!

No one gets tired of Istanbul

Where the Wild Things Are

WE MADE IT!!

Loss on the Silk Road

Wednesday, 29 October 2014

Into the Wild - Goreme Style

We have reached another overland milestone – truck breakdown in crappy weather.  Did I not say we would end up in the mountains stranded somewhere?  All things considered, we have done very well as far as mechanics go so it was only a matter of time before another initiation took place.  This one was on the way to Goreme.  Somewhere in a mountain pass in the cold pouring rain our truck decided it had had enough and needed some vehicular TLC.   The gods must have been on our side that day because the break down occurred in a small mountain village that had a hotel.  I have no idea the town’s name.  It was pretty surreal actually.  Cobblestone roads and mist.  It was like a movie set for Basil Rathborne’s Sherlock Holmes meet’s Christopher Lee’s Dracula.  There was a plethora of shops selling honey – as in pretty much every shop.  The hotel we stayed in had a view of the mountains which was nice.  In the evening when I was trying to access Internet I noticed a lot of local guys coming in pairs into hotel rooms.  One had a briefcase.  They would go in a room and then about 20 minutes later one of the guys would come out and leave – no briefcase.  Black market pollen perhaps?  Ken used the delay to his advantage and got his hair cut by the two hottest Turkish barbers on the planet.  I watched really bad 70’s Turkish movies and ate an entire tube of Pringles.  I figured I earned a junk food binge after all the stress and weight loss on the trip and it’s not like this town had a Starbucks…

The mechanical delay meant a very early start the next day to push on to Goreme.  Another long drive this time in the cold and wet.  Everyone was wrapped up in sleeping bags in the back.  The days of sweltering heat in the desert were now officially over.

Goreme!!!  So good to be back!  The land of fairy chimneys, penis rocks, and actually lattes made by real baristas!!  Probably the biggest joy was the fact that what was suppose to be 3 days of camping turned into 3 days staying in a cave hotel.  Pure Bliss.  The camping would have been brutal.  Not so much about the people but the weather – at night it was getting down to 3 Celsius. (My water boiling skills would have REALLY become an issue with those morning lows!)  As soon as we all checked in everyone went out on a mission to find gloves!  Or, in my case, gloves and a latte J

Wow.  It’s only been a year and a half since we were here and it is amazing at how much the place is changing.  It is definitely becoming a “tourist town” which is really kind of sad.  I think very soon this place will no longer be a realistic back packers destination.  Prices were shocking.  Even a cheap eats establishment will set you back around 10 to 15 dollars Canadian per person for a meal.  You don’t want to know what I paid for a latte but it was enough that I considered pimping Ken out to support my habit.  Balloon rides are now so popular that they do two outings a day – the sunrise one and sunset.  Seems to be that over the last few years Asian tourists (Japanese, Korean and Chinese) have started to discovered this place.  

We had 3 days here to unwind.  One of the days was a full day tour of the sites.  We were going to do it but the night before I had a major panic attack at having to be with group and I asked Ken if we could do a hike instead. (We had seen everything before on our last trip so both of us felt the stress wasn’t worth it.)  We happened to be at café where the owner knows the area very well and he gave us a trail map and told us how to do the “Red Cliffs” route.  This would take us through a number of valleys and rises with striated cliffs, carved out old churches and general over all epic scenery.  The hike would end in a small town where we could catch a local bus back to Goreme.  Ken asked “What would it cost for  a taxi?”  The café owner replied, “Why you want to pay for a taxi?  It’s only 2 lira for the bus!! What are you?  Crazy? Why spend more money for a taxi.  Come back here and spend money on a good dinner after the hike!”  


So the next morning off we went.  Out for a hike that was supposed to be around 4 km and should have us in a small town for a late lunch with time to get back and revisit the open air museum and Pigeon Point.  Maybe even consider an evening balloon ride.  Yeah right.  15 km later…  Holy Crap!  Not only did we totally screw up on where we were suppose to turn off but we also ended up on this ridge that was maybe a foot wide with a dead drop down the other side.  Fortunately we were heading “to” the town so any climbing was up and by climbing I mean almost vertical rock face.  We acquired a stray dog at one point who early on I gave half our trail mix too.  (Soooo regretted that later on…)  We had no water.  All I had was a tin of “Freudian Mints” I kept in my purse from The Strand in NYC.  Those were going to get us far…  There were no people anywhere (which is not  good sign if you are doing a “highly rated trail.”)  Eventually we came across this lone artist from New York.  He was carrying a sketch book and bore an eerie resemblance to Christopher McCandless of “Into the Wild” fame.  He had no idea where he is on the trail (“Yeah I’ve just been walking and sketching.”)  I asked him how long he had been out.  “Oh about 2 months now,” he replies wistfully.  Not looking good…  Ken asks how the trail was from his end.  “Oh its ok.  Some steep slopes but you should be good.”  He was right about the steep slopes.  Vibrams and climbing gear would have been helpful.  As would more trail mix.  Don’t look at me like that skinny dog…

Love isn't just hot air...

A tisket a tasket, tourist gold for our basket

Layers of Beauty

Nature's Delicate Balance

10 km later..."It's just over those ridges - I think...I was busy sketching..."

Balloon Dog says enjoy my view

The Eyes Have It

Not so big Yellow Taxi

The Cave Dwellings of Goreme (Little Anikan lived in the house on the right!)

Goreme

Ken about to engage in some serious "Caving"

A balloon homage to THAT scene from the original Total Recall movie

Our "dog" on the trail that never ends...

I call Bullshit on this one - it wasn't hot enough :-)

Parrots can now legally own shops in Goreme


The juice stand of G Trips gone by....

Rise up Rise up!

One of many spiritual retreats in the rocks of Goreme

Storm Troopers get holidays too you know!! (They have a union)

Just taking in the phallic view

We're baaaaccckkk..... xoxo



Saturday, 25 October 2014

Batumi Beach Blanket Bingo!

I am now at the point in the journey where writing anything remotely profound is becoming a struggle.  It has been 12 weeks since I have had organic crunchy peanut butter and far too long since I have had a real bath.  I feel protein deprived and slightly malodorous.  I stopped shaving my legs and arm pits once we left China because shorts aren’t exactly “kosher wear” on the silk road and, quite frankly, I feel it adds to my “holier than thou feminist” presence on the truck.  I would have burned a bra or two at a campfire but I think that would have been the definite tipping point for reinstating witch burning as a legitimate overland pastime.

So back to the shaving…

I did end up having to break out the razor and patchouli soap because our next stop was Batumi, the premiere Georgian Black Sea resort town that is just a hop, skip and a jump from Sochi and right on the border of Turkey.  I need to get back to this place in the summer when it is hopping like Penticton during Peach Festival.  October is great if you want the entire boardwalk to yourself and you want to be the only one at a coffee shop.  Well to be fair, we weren’t the only ones in town.  The USS Mt. Whitney was in port so I had to share the promenade with sailors and Filipino cruise ship personnel.  Yep – living the dream!  We missed the annual “Batumipalooza” (its in August).  The line up was retro impressive – Boney M, Ace of Base, 2 Live Crew and, wait for it…  KENNY G!!   Interspersed with these headliners were a bunch of EuroVision one hit wonders and some Georgian/Russian techno hybids that promised to “dance you into hereafter and back again.”  I bet the jello shots were flowing on the beach that weekend.  Highlight for us was the dancing fountains that make the Bellagio look like something a small child created with nails  and a garden hose.  From 9 pm until midnight this wonderland of lights and hydro-choreography performs to such musical numbers as The Theme from Mission Impossible, The Soundtrack to Lord of the Rings, an assortment of Broadway show tunes and then – the piece de resistance – DONNER SUMMER’S HOT STUFF!!  So there we were– me, Ken, a security guard and two gay sailors dancing ourselves to the hereafter and back on the boulevard in Batumi.  You have to wonder what this would have been like during peak season when Putin stops by…

Batumi - BTW - boasts the most space age awesome McDonalds on the planet.  Check it out here:
Make sure you scroll through the photos.  This is your new one stop shop for burgers, petrol and sailors!

A few days later we crossed the border into Turkey.  A border crossing so uneventful and simple that it is only worth mentioning because it now means we have reached our final country on the silk road.  It also means we have actual toilets when we do a toilet stop and the cost of everything just went up by 400%.  Gone are the days of $5 meals (and those were splurges!).  Major upshot though is getting tea for free at every gas station - much appreciated since the temperature has dropped rapidly these last few weeks.  Our first stop in Turkey was the Sumela Monastery which “overlooks forests and streams, making it extremely popular for its aesthetic attraction as well as for its cultural and religious significance.”  Nice hike up with great views at the top.  Also ran into my “Drago Peeps” while there which is always good for a laugh.  They have an older Belgian lady on their trip who always cracks me up with her blunt honesty.  We ran into her as we were walking back down and she asked, “Is this another one of those dam monasteries carved into rock?  There is only so much destroyed religious heritage a person can take on a trip!”

And finally, you have probably gathered that my/our mood has changed somewhat over the last few entries.  That’s because we have been doing the no more camping happy dance!!  This means I will no longer be bitched out for not lighting a camp stove properly or boiling water fast enough.  It still means I have to endure the back handed comments about how I should be the one who has to clean out the cooler that now smells like  a dead corpse.  Because when you overland, it’s not about who is actually assigned a task, its about who someone else assigns that task to and, of course, their rules on how it should be done.


<cue in Donna Summer…. I’M DANCING!!!!!>

(Oh I almost forgot!  Before we got to Batumi we made a stop at the Prometheus Caves.  Impressive! Almost as impressive as ATM in Belize - almost.  I still have to give ATM top billing because you have to swim in and actually "cave" to do it but Prometheus does not disappoint.  Especially when the tour guide forgets you are still in there and turns all the lights off.  You ever tried to find your way out of a cave using your Android as a light source?  Trust me - you don't want to.  There is not enough Donna Summer or Ativan in the world to recover from that experience.)

*I just realized that i wrote "Donner Summer" instead of Donna Summer.  But you know what?  I am leaving it as it.  Because it wouldn't surprise me at all if this trip ended with us trapped in the mountains having to eat each other while listening to 70's disco music.  I need almond butter STAT!

One of the rare moments when beach chairs are free of Germans

Butane Black Sea Love

Clock Tower in Batumi

Ferris Wheel resting after a long summer of spinning

Down town Batumi

It isn't an overland until there is another wedding!

Tennis Cat says score is LOVE

Prometheus's Jaws

Prometheus's Wings

When graffiti goes bad... (Sumela Monastery)

Sumela Monastary - worth the hike (and the rain!)

Sumela Selfie!  Not our happiest pose but it was raining, we were cold and off in the distance we were distracted by a Starbucks...