About Me

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Whimsy comes in many forms and if you are lucky enough to encounter even one of them, your life will change forever. Jedi Queen is one of those whimsical creatures. She spends her entire life living on the edges. Growing up off the grid she lived the hippy life before it became main stream. After high school she left the farm for more concrete pastures and bucked her anarchist roots for post secondary values. A Master's degree in Clinical Social work and another in Art Therapy lead to private practice as an Existential Sherpa. To her parent's horror she married a doctor and settled into a life of suburban banality which lasted all of six months. Now days Jedi Queen and the Good Doctor divide time between their yorkie minions and ancient obese cat with epic overland adventuring. You can take the girl from the wild but you can't take the wild out of the girl!

Wednesday, 13 May 2015

Storm Chasers, Smores, and Parking Lot Fish Tacos

There are times in one’s life where being in the storm is a necessity.  Perhaps not a full on hurricane or a nor’easter at sea but a force of nature nonetheless.  One that can be appreciated for its ferocity and admired for its raw beauty.  There are places in the world where the storm is why you come.  Not many places mind you.  Perhaps only one - a place called Tofino.

I remember the first time I came to Tofino.  It was the same way many people do – a four-day package at the Wikininish Inn.  Tofino did not disappoint.  There were storms of the natural wonder kind.  There were also storms of the heart - a dismally failed attempt at a family holiday.  The view was good but the company less so.  I spent the four days weathering my own inner tempest and coming to the realization that some families are never meant to break free of the waves.

On this occasion I wanted to face the storm head on.  The best way to do this was to book a beach front room at the Pacific Sands – top floor so I could look past the trees and into the abyss.  I had it all planned out.  Books, wine, cheese and popcorn.  Eight days of watching Mother Nature batter the west coast while I admired her behind a wall of glass.  Maybe I would even write. I imagined it would be a little like the Shining minus the creepy twins and maniacal axe murdered.   

The storm refused to come.  This lead to a complete rethink of my forced withdrawal.   Storm watching was replaced by beach combing.  Long walks on Long Beach and even longer walks on Chestermere.   Endless parades of mixed breed surfers and dogs. Always a beach fire, beer and “herb” to be had.  Tofino has an eclectic mix of subdued wealth and off the grid youth.   It’s charming, unpretentious and green.  It remains one of the few places in the world that still has not fully embraced the Internet or the notion that dogs must be kept on a leash and sleeping on the beach must be a crime. 

All this walking required fuel.  A beach combing excursion must include fish tacos from Tacofino.  If we were not wet and sandy enough from the walk we were sure to pay our dues in line at the food truck.  Part of the delicious anticipation is waiting in the back parking lot ankle deep in mud along with half the town.  We eat what has to be the best grilled tuna wasabi taco in the universe sitting on broken stools in the rain.  And we don’t care because it’s fresh and it’s made with love and its Mother Nature man!

On the days where the storm hinted she might arrive we ate at “Fetch” in the Black Rock Inn at Ucuelet.  If the fish tacos at Tacofino don’t sate your palate then the “Sea Which” sandwich and Caesar Salad at the Black Rock will.  I ate them both twice over and rationalized it as a necessary indulgence in order to revisit the art show in the lobby.  I was very partial to Allison Tremain’s Hump Back Whale prints and even now, I find myself eyeing her web page for future acquisitions.   That’s not to say an acquisition wasn’t made!  There was an obligatory stop at Roy Henry Vicker’s Eagle Aerie Gallery to pay homage to the man who blessed our living room with two of his drum skin paintings.  Roy has become a lot more famous since our first purchase many years ago. This meant that my lust for his “Eagle Feather” acrylic on rag paper would have to remain just lustful thinking… This time around our walls back home would be graced by a carved Haida Raven that seduced Ken at  the House of Himwitsa. 


All to soon the sun begins to set and it’s time to squeeze in one more beach walk.  A stroll past Frank Island where we seriously consider retiring on a cabin perched on the rocks looking into infinity.  The tide rolls in and the surfers roll out.  We come across four young men in the prime of silliness and agree to email them photos of their outrageous male bonding on boards.  They are like the sea – wet and wild and completely oblivious to the power the have.  They are destined for greatness and are humble enough not to show it.  For now they are content to perform feats of acrobatic strength for two wandering souls; their debt to humanity done for the day.  It is 7 o’clock, which means the fire pit at Pacific Sands, will be ready for smores.  The young disappear into the waves.  The old convene by the fire.  Tonight there will be no storm.  But then again, I’ve had enough storms in this lifetime that I should be done chasing them by now.  Instead I will eat smores and tomorrow I will eat fish tacos in the rain.  And then I will begin to count down the days until we are back in Tofino again.

Chestermere Beach

Surfing and cycling

A fisherman and his dogs

"Look WWAAAYYYY up" - In the land of Giants

Green Velvet Canopies

Random guitar playing ex-Calgarian

Some things are meant to be paddled

Flexing our mussels

Peacock Petting Zoo!

Salamander Spawn

If I had a million dollars...

Boys on the side

Sunset boogie

Being board on the beach

Surfs up!

Tacofino in the parking lot

Tacofino in Victoria sans mud pit

Where the road ends and life begins

Medusa slept here

A room with a view

Sunset at Pacific Sands

Endless summer...

It wouldn't be an adventure if we didn't find a wedding!

Sunday, 1 February 2015

96 Days.. And the Sleeper now Awakens..

Now seems as good a time as any to end what had begun.  Ninety-six days home after ninety-six days on the road.  God knows, I wanted to write an ending much sooner but when it was over, I wasn’t sure how.  Everything had been so much more than what we had bargained for.  By the end of the journey I was exhausted. Emotionally and physically spent.  I just wanted to get home.  But it never really was over. It weighed on me.  Each passing day another crushing stone on my soul. 

Every day on the road I read and re-read what I had written.  It was a talisman, an anchor.  Writing and reading my story gave it far better meaning than the one I was experiencing.  There was power in making the story my own; claiming the light from the dark.   When I returned I abandoned the story.  I could not revisit it or bear to recall it.  I wanted to banish all the memory of it because to remember brought pain.  So much pain…

All I thought off when I was on the road was how much I wanted to see a friendly face again.   I could not wait until I was home and with the ones I loved.  Once home, I wanted to hide myself forever.  I dreaded seeing anyone for fear they would ask about the trip.  To speak of it made it real and I desperately needed for it to not be.  My story telling had out did itself – the story became everyone’s story.  My story was an awakening for those at home – a chance to live vicariously through a gypsy’s eyes.  No one, least of all myself, understood the cost this awakening would bring.

 I wrestled with the meaning it of it all.  I wrestled with the deep awareness that a journey worth doing is never meant to be easy and that when one is most alone transformation takes place.  I knew there was a purpose to this but I was too raw to embrace it.  So I let the lights go out and spent the next 96 days cocooning in the darkness.

We ended the trip much like we began – knowing nothing of our fellow travelers other than their shadows.  I’ve spent the 96 days since returning wondering what went wrong.  What could I have done to change things?  Over and over I play the scenerio out and always I come to the same answer – all I could have done was not be me.  It was a difficult journey…

I have never been so sure of who I was and at the same time so defeated by that awareness.  I was on a journey where everything I was and was about to become was truth.  No one really prepares you for the final push though – that final bursting from the cocoon.  It is always about how beautiful you wings will be but never about how fragile and vulnerable you are waiting for them to dry.  I hung on the precipice of butterfly fruition and complete annihilation sitting in an overland truck driving the Silk Road. 

Istanbul ended in the back of a windowless van packed with luggage and foes. Crouching on the dirty floor,  I made a feeble attempt at black humor saying this would prepared me for Afghanistan or Syria.  I quickly realized the horrible truth in it.  Trapped, overheated, overwhelmed and exhausted I begged at the next traffic light to be set free.  And there we stood, on the streets of Istanbul.  Alone, nauseated, unable to breath.  We walked the crowded streets to our hotel and slowly I realized that now my wings were ready.  For the next four days I was determined to fly.

It started with a shoeshine.  Three months of dirt and agony wiped clean by a man living in a cardboard house.  His wife smokes openly beside him and screams “FUCK YOU” to anyone who gives her grief for doing so.  For the first time in 96 days I feel like I belong.  I want this shoeshine to last forever. 

Coffee at coffee houses considered the best in the world.  They resided in places no self-respecting tourist would seek out.  I relish in the realization that there is no chance I will run into anyone from the journey here.  There is far too much color plus everyone smiles.  Sitting sipping coffee I hold the pieces of my shattered self in my hands.  A million tiny souls waiting to be stitch into a whole human being again.  Any journey worth doing will require you to break.  That’s the irony of it all – transformation only happens when what you didn’t prepare for happens.  Or more to the point, when everything you think you know goes “tits up” and all you are left with is yourself and a shit load of self doubt. 

I am still struggling to make sense of it all.  I know I am not the same person I was before I left.  I seem to be existing in a simultaneous state of profound grief and joy.  I lost so much of myself on this journey and yet I find myself feeling unburdened by it all.  It seems les about what I have lost and more of what I am becoming.  You have to become “something” in end.  It’s ether that or you die. All those broken pieces become a masterpiece of a jigsaw puzzle waiting to be made.

There are worse things in the world than being stuck on a truck for 96 days.  While I was on my journey others were on theirs – job loss, infertility, divorce, diagnoses, death.  All things that would not end in 96 days and certainly not conducive to pupating into a butterfly.  The first thing an awakening teaches you is humility.  I’d like to say the second is grace but I’m not there yet.  Now that I am home and my wings are almost ready I find myself wishing I was a fire-breathing butterfly so no one sees it coming…  So maybe the second thing I am learning is anger.  Not the self-destructive kind but the motivating kind.  The kind where you find yourself staring in the mirror yelling, “I AM THE MOST AMAZING GOD DAM BUTTERFLY IN THE UNIVERSE” and you start thinking about where in the world you will fly to next.

So this is the end and this is the beginning.  This journey is now over to make room for the next.  I wanted to say good-bye to the Silk Road so I could say Hello to the next adventure(s).

Hello Wainwright Trail  
Hello India


Hello world. Get ready.  You’re about to meet the most amazing fire-breathing butterfly EVER.

Nothing like being blue at the Blue Mosque

Who I should have been travelling with on the Silk Road...

Nothing says Istanbul like a Whirling Dervish Rave

Fishing for compliments on a Sunday Afternoon

The fish sandwich I should have had instead of the crap one at midnight the night before

Simetry

The second best thing next to coffee

The Dialectic that this Istanbul

I waited 96 days for this!!

Joy can always be found in a cup

Always go where there is color

Antioxidant Heaven

Hanging with my Peeps

Turkish Baristas - need  I say more

Always find the familiar after a traumatic event

The freedom to swing however I want

Lattes come with cats

I LOVE THIS PLACE!!

No one gets tired of Istanbul

Where the Wild Things Are

WE MADE IT!!

Loss on the Silk Road

Wednesday, 29 October 2014

Into the Wild - Goreme Style

We have reached another overland milestone – truck breakdown in crappy weather.  Did I not say we would end up in the mountains stranded somewhere?  All things considered, we have done very well as far as mechanics go so it was only a matter of time before another initiation took place.  This one was on the way to Goreme.  Somewhere in a mountain pass in the cold pouring rain our truck decided it had had enough and needed some vehicular TLC.   The gods must have been on our side that day because the break down occurred in a small mountain village that had a hotel.  I have no idea the town’s name.  It was pretty surreal actually.  Cobblestone roads and mist.  It was like a movie set for Basil Rathborne’s Sherlock Holmes meet’s Christopher Lee’s Dracula.  There was a plethora of shops selling honey – as in pretty much every shop.  The hotel we stayed in had a view of the mountains which was nice.  In the evening when I was trying to access Internet I noticed a lot of local guys coming in pairs into hotel rooms.  One had a briefcase.  They would go in a room and then about 20 minutes later one of the guys would come out and leave – no briefcase.  Black market pollen perhaps?  Ken used the delay to his advantage and got his hair cut by the two hottest Turkish barbers on the planet.  I watched really bad 70’s Turkish movies and ate an entire tube of Pringles.  I figured I earned a junk food binge after all the stress and weight loss on the trip and it’s not like this town had a Starbucks…

The mechanical delay meant a very early start the next day to push on to Goreme.  Another long drive this time in the cold and wet.  Everyone was wrapped up in sleeping bags in the back.  The days of sweltering heat in the desert were now officially over.

Goreme!!!  So good to be back!  The land of fairy chimneys, penis rocks, and actually lattes made by real baristas!!  Probably the biggest joy was the fact that what was suppose to be 3 days of camping turned into 3 days staying in a cave hotel.  Pure Bliss.  The camping would have been brutal.  Not so much about the people but the weather – at night it was getting down to 3 Celsius. (My water boiling skills would have REALLY become an issue with those morning lows!)  As soon as we all checked in everyone went out on a mission to find gloves!  Or, in my case, gloves and a latte J

Wow.  It’s only been a year and a half since we were here and it is amazing at how much the place is changing.  It is definitely becoming a “tourist town” which is really kind of sad.  I think very soon this place will no longer be a realistic back packers destination.  Prices were shocking.  Even a cheap eats establishment will set you back around 10 to 15 dollars Canadian per person for a meal.  You don’t want to know what I paid for a latte but it was enough that I considered pimping Ken out to support my habit.  Balloon rides are now so popular that they do two outings a day – the sunrise one and sunset.  Seems to be that over the last few years Asian tourists (Japanese, Korean and Chinese) have started to discovered this place.  

We had 3 days here to unwind.  One of the days was a full day tour of the sites.  We were going to do it but the night before I had a major panic attack at having to be with group and I asked Ken if we could do a hike instead. (We had seen everything before on our last trip so both of us felt the stress wasn’t worth it.)  We happened to be at café where the owner knows the area very well and he gave us a trail map and told us how to do the “Red Cliffs” route.  This would take us through a number of valleys and rises with striated cliffs, carved out old churches and general over all epic scenery.  The hike would end in a small town where we could catch a local bus back to Goreme.  Ken asked “What would it cost for  a taxi?”  The café owner replied, “Why you want to pay for a taxi?  It’s only 2 lira for the bus!! What are you?  Crazy? Why spend more money for a taxi.  Come back here and spend money on a good dinner after the hike!”  


So the next morning off we went.  Out for a hike that was supposed to be around 4 km and should have us in a small town for a late lunch with time to get back and revisit the open air museum and Pigeon Point.  Maybe even consider an evening balloon ride.  Yeah right.  15 km later…  Holy Crap!  Not only did we totally screw up on where we were suppose to turn off but we also ended up on this ridge that was maybe a foot wide with a dead drop down the other side.  Fortunately we were heading “to” the town so any climbing was up and by climbing I mean almost vertical rock face.  We acquired a stray dog at one point who early on I gave half our trail mix too.  (Soooo regretted that later on…)  We had no water.  All I had was a tin of “Freudian Mints” I kept in my purse from The Strand in NYC.  Those were going to get us far…  There were no people anywhere (which is not  good sign if you are doing a “highly rated trail.”)  Eventually we came across this lone artist from New York.  He was carrying a sketch book and bore an eerie resemblance to Christopher McCandless of “Into the Wild” fame.  He had no idea where he is on the trail (“Yeah I’ve just been walking and sketching.”)  I asked him how long he had been out.  “Oh about 2 months now,” he replies wistfully.  Not looking good…  Ken asks how the trail was from his end.  “Oh its ok.  Some steep slopes but you should be good.”  He was right about the steep slopes.  Vibrams and climbing gear would have been helpful.  As would more trail mix.  Don’t look at me like that skinny dog…

Love isn't just hot air...

A tisket a tasket, tourist gold for our basket

Layers of Beauty

Nature's Delicate Balance

10 km later..."It's just over those ridges - I think...I was busy sketching..."

Balloon Dog says enjoy my view

The Eyes Have It

Not so big Yellow Taxi

The Cave Dwellings of Goreme (Little Anikan lived in the house on the right!)

Goreme

Ken about to engage in some serious "Caving"

A balloon homage to THAT scene from the original Total Recall movie

Our "dog" on the trail that never ends...

I call Bullshit on this one - it wasn't hot enough :-)

Parrots can now legally own shops in Goreme


The juice stand of G Trips gone by....

Rise up Rise up!

One of many spiritual retreats in the rocks of Goreme

Storm Troopers get holidays too you know!! (They have a union)

Just taking in the phallic view

We're baaaaccckkk..... xoxo