The Lazy Cherub Enigma: District 798

Sunday 27 July 2014

District 798

A trip to Beijing has to begin with a visit to District 798 – home of my boyfriend Aei Wei Wei and the place where modern art in China began. The area itself is a vast industrial complex built by the East Germans in the late 1950’s. No one really knows if it ever came of anything and the buildings sat abandoned until the mid 1990’s when artists moved in to claim the warehouses as space to live and create. Today District 798 is a mix of hipster bars, cafes and dirty dilapidated studios that give the place an eccentric feel. The streets and alleyways are lined with sculpture and graffiti. There are a lot of great photo opportunities but my verdict is still out as to if, in the end, it was worth the trek to the city fringes to see this conclave of creativity.

For one, it was a billion degrees out so being out side was like being in a pizza oven. Many galleries had air conditioning (yeah!) but you still had to leave to get to the next place. So after regaining consciousness, you open the door and get blasted by hot air. The Good Doctor and I must have each drank $20 of water and it was NOT because water was pricey. We never peed for 12 hrs it was HOT out. The heat and humidity made it difficult to want to spend too much time wandering outside especially if you were in direct sun. Shade wasn’t of no help. It's just shade only in a furnace.

The other issue is that without a guide it is very hard to appreciate the history and nuance of the place. My boyfriend wasn’t home (probably in prison again or hiding from the authorities) so we had to make a go of it ourselves. Not speaking Mandarin put us at a disadvantage in terms of appreciating the subtle nuances and behind the scenes machinations. But hey, I found a great coffee shop and I met a poodle named David Beckham. That alone made it a good day!

(A final note: Clearing customs in Beijing airport we where inundated with large display cases of items you cannot bring into China. These included ivory carvings and fake watches. The irony was not lost on us. As we left customs and entered the terminal there was the usual throngs against the ropes waiting for loved ones and friends to arrive. At the front were two lovely young men with baskets of goodies waving Viking Tours flags and holding a placard with the name of two guests. My sad poetic heart imagines with their Chinese efficiency and kindness they are still waiting...)