Camping, Weddings and Buddhas

We just  spent the last 2 nights camping on the Yellow River  - our first in what will become a long series of bush camps.

First stop after we left Xiahe was the town’s coffin maker to get a bunch of rejects for firewood.  After the tyrannical monk episode our guide felt the only fire wood worthy of our damned souls was wood not good enough to bury the dead in.  Then it was off to our glorious campsite along the Yellow River reservoir.  Upon arrival we found that in the two weeks since our guide(s) had been here, construction had begun on who knows what (pretty indicative of China’s construction obsession) and where a dirt road should be was now a very large pile of sand.  No worries – we have an overland truck – we make our own road!  So there you have it! – in amongst the sunflowers and filth with dirt bikers all around us.  After an hour picking up 4000 beer bottles and 4 bags of trash left by local revellers, we were  finally able to pitch our tents and get our funeral pyre going to cook yak stew.  Richard brought out his gallon of “fire water” and I got the iPod hooked up to the truck speakers.  Camping had now commenced!  (Well, it wasn’t really official until the chickens and goats showed up.)

The goats and chickens weren’t our only visitors.  For the next two days we awoke each morning to find our campsite over taken by a wedding photographer and his clients.  It was beyond surreal.  Us in grubby camp clothes with brides and their make up artists lounging beside us to wait for their turn behind the lens.    

The following morning we took  a water taxi to visit the Bingling Si Grottos.  The water taxi was a bit daunting.  It was a small encased boat that reminded me of the hull of  sailing ship designed to roll 360 degrees without sinking in rough weather.  Except this boat was no where near that sea worthy from a  marine engineering stand point.   If this boat rolled (and it most likely would if hit by any kind of wave) we would do a 180 degree roll and then drown since no one was escaping out of  windows no bigger than a  newborn child.  Add to that the boat was only large to enough to seat maybe 8 children and a driver, pack it instead with 11 adults and a driver and you have the makings of a disaster.  But I was up for the challenge!  I pushed all thoughts of Korean and Indonesian ferry disasters out of my head and for the next 22 minutes I marvelled at  the scenery before me.  Looming canyons and spectacular rock formations.  It really was beautiful to behold and there was many a moment that I was distracted enough be the beauty of the landscape that I forgot I was drifting in a sea of filth in a boat that no country but China would authorise as sea worthy.

The Bingling Si Grottos were amazing if for any other reason, it was the one site we have been too that is not over run with a million tourists.  It was a peaceful stroll amongst the Giant Buddha and grazing yaks.  It was a bit unnerving when one of the guards tried to tear my shirt off to see if I had any more tattoos but  I’ve learnt to roll with that now.  It’s amazing how one can quickly adjust their concepts of personal space and body politics when travelling.  That said, there is no way in hell the shirt grabbing would be okay in Egypt – or Calgary!

Other news:  I’ve come down with a cold.  Or Avian Flu.  Or Bubonic Plague.  Or Ebola.  Anything is possible here with the number of humans, chickens, and lack of sanitation.  I should be good though.  Richard says has some magic elixir some dude sold him off his cart along with the fire water.  Jason (Chinese guide) says it is “brandy.”  It has a snake floating in it….  I plan to just bathe in sani gel and take a couple of acetaminophen.  I feel with Ken around, I have a few more options before I resort to fermented snake juice.

BEEutiful!

Spectacular scenery along the Yellow River (kayak trip anyone?!)

Poseidon Adventure - Yellow River Redux 

Love Among the Rubbish

There is always beauty to be found

Chicken welcoming committee

All we needed was smores and a guitar (reject coffin wood makes a damn good fire)!

The BIG Buddha

Insensed by incense!

Purple Herbie Buddha Style

Our lovely Shepard Friend

Yakkity Yak!

Yak Attack!