The Lazy Cherub Enigma: Crossing over to Civilization

What does it all mean? When we say “It’s not the destination but the journey” what is it we expect the journey to be? Do any of us really journey inward as we journey outward into the world? For if we do, what changes once we are there and more importantly, who do we become after the journey ends? Is the journey an escape from life or is it a way to start to live again? So many questions…

Our journey continues with our ship sailing – truck, lentil patties, and all – for a 16 hour crossing of the Caspian Sea. The good news was that we were able to board the cargo ferry that was in dock the night before and that put us a few days ahead of schedule. A little less driving and a lot more rest is like striking gold on an overland. We settled into our “10^th Class” room on board and set about doing a bit of exploration. This soviet era ship had definitely seen better days. The “gymnasium” looked like a Russian body builder’s basement circa 1971. Ken took note that there was one life boat for the entire ship and we never did find a single life jacket. That said, the crossing was uneventful. It wasn’t the Drake! Although last nights wind did have us wondering if it could be the next “Edmund Fitzgerald.” The highlight on board was one of the crew members coming down around 9 pm and getting very excited about taking Ken and Simon into the shower to demonstrate that he now had the hot water working. What goes on at sea stays at sea but I will say this – Ken came back to our cabin an hour later saying that was the best shower he EVER had on the trip so far J

Next afternoon had us docking at Baku – the capital city of Azerbaijan. After so long on the Silk Road it was almost surreal to arrive in a port where an actual “city” existed. It’s hard to say if reaching modern civilization is a blessing or a curse but one thing for sure was that everyone was looking forward to good coffee, Coke Zero, workable flush toilets and peanut butter. (I am not the only “addict” on this trip!)

Luck was on our side as customs was willing to “delay” the truck’s entry into Azerbaijan. This meant we had an extra day in Baku before the clock started to tick on our 72 hour limit. Two days is not enough for Baku. This is not a city conducive to a one night stand nor is it enough to simply stay the morning and cuddle. She is a city that demands a lingering love affair. Old meets new here in a way that is strikingly bold and intoxicating. Baku is cosmopolitan. Baku is elegant. Baku is old world charm mixed with bohemian nouveau rich. BAKU IS FILLED WITH CATS!! Cats and coffee are always a reason to stay…

We spent the first day endlessly wandering the city even though it poured rain. I found peanut butter and a kitten (HEAVEN!). We ate street food from a vendor who handled dirty money and then made our shwarmas. We had coffee at a high end shop overlooking the main square. Ken eyed the Burberry boutique… Then it was back to our hotel to rest. Ken had a “man date” to prepare for. A colleague from Ken’s department had hooked us up with a friend who lived in the city. They were going to go for dinner and I was going to rest. Sadly, I had no mental energy whatsoever to meet new people and I really, really needed alone time with my peanut butter.

About 10 minutes after Ken left for his “date” I ran into another couple from out trip. They were clearly upset and it turned out it was because another member of our group had taken ill and was in hospital. She had some kind of blockage and there was talk she may need surgery. She and her partner were stressed and anxious as there was a language barrier and of course, this all had huge ramifications about how the trip would pan out for them. My heart went out to them. I can’t even begin to imagine how stressed or scared I would be if I got seriously ill in a foreign country! Luckily it was Baku but still, to be so far away from home when you are ill is a horrible situation to be in. I quickly thought: “Ken is a Dr and Elgun can speak the language. I am SURE together they could help ease a lot of the medical and language stress.” It took a fair bit of “creativity” and some amazing help from some of you back home but in the end, I was able to thwart the man date with a medical emergency J The end result was an English speaking Dr finally did arrive and our tour member is on the mend. The hope is that she and her partner can rejoin us in Georgia in a weeks time. (BIG THANK YOU to Elgun and Leyla!! We will be back to Baku very soon to have a proper dinner and to get those doors! LOL!)

Oh and the Extreme Thug Kitchen Lentil patties for the crossing? They never did get eaten. Inward and onward - the journey continues...

(Note: "Thug Kitchen" is a hilarious vegan web site. Check it out!!)