The Lazy Cherub Enigma: That time you were in McLeod-Ganj and the Dalai Lama was there and you were like OMG OMG OMG!!!

September 12, 2015

Imagine what you would do if suddenly everything you ever knew was destroyed. Not just destroyed but banned forever to be talked of again. Imagine never being able to hear again music you grew up with, speak the language of your people, or read or write in the same form as you had up until now. Imagine your entire world as you know it gone - your homes, your places of worship, your museums, your libraries - and you left with no where to go and nothing to anchor you to anything of who you once were.

Such is the lot of the people of Tibet and if you are wondering what that has to do with a trip to India then you must come here – to McLeod Ganj – and experience all the trauma and all the rebirth of what was and what has now become.

McLeod Ganj was established as a military garrison in the mid-1850’s and remained as such until a devastating earthquake in 1905. After that, it was a run down back water in the mountains until 1960 when the Dalai Lama claimed asylum following the Chinese invasion of Tibet. Today, McLeod Ganj is the official headquarters of the Tibetan government and the residence of his Holiness the 14^th Dalai Lama. It has become a mini-Lhasa of sorts filled with Tibetan refugees and Westerners looking for enlightenment. There is a definite vibe that anyone who is lost can find him or herself again in McLeod Ganj. That is clearly seen in the plethora of psychedelic travellers who wander the hills and congregate in Tibetan cafes that line the main street of town. No one who comes to McLeod Ganj leaves without a deeper sense of purpose and a greater dose of humility.

This is made all the more fascinating when you consider how India and Tibet have come to a mutually humane understanding in dealing with refugees. Tibetans are welcome to come and resettle in McLeod Ganj. Although Tibetans will never attain Indian citizenship this is counterbalanced with the absolute support of the Indian government for Tibetans to reclaim their identity, resettle and remold McLead Ganj as their own. In doing so, the town has become a hub of cultural rediscovery as Tibetans feverishly work to reclaim their language, arts, and spiritual identity. No where is this more apparent than at the tranquil Norbulinka Institute, a community of artisans devoted to keeping traditional Tibet art and religious forms alive as well as promoting sustainable eco-friendly business opportunities. The institute itself is built in a traditional Tibetan architectural style with its gardens based on the proportions of the compassionate Tibetan deity, Avalokiteshvara. After the intense hub bub of Delhi and Amritsar, Norbulinka is a welcome dose of tranquility and peace. As is this entire area. Here in the mountains as the mist floats down to caress the terraces, it is easy to believe one has found Shangri La. The world outside has been left at the base of the climb and is replaced with hope, simplicity and unassuming grace.

The corner stone of McLeod Ganj is, of course, the Tsuglagkhang Complex, official residence of the Dalai Lama. Built as a concrete equivalent to the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, it is as unassuming as it is holy. You would be forgiven for wandering past it and not giving it a second glance or wandering into it not realizing you have entered the home of greatness. We only knew we were in the right place due to the shear number of saffron robes milling about. Unbeknownst to us, this was the start of a 4 day conference at Tsuglagkhang – one of the few times each year the Dalai Lama is actually “home.” After a quick pat down for lighters, Sani Gel and a polite request to leave cameras and cellphones behind we entered the complex to see what all the ado was about. The atmosphere was casual. People sat or lay in the courtyard. Some chatted in small groups. Others worked on chalk mandalas. Above on a TV screen was the Dalai Lama sitting in a mass of orange cushions reading aloud from his notes. We made our way up a fight of stairs because there was a sign that said “Washrooms.”

And then it happened.

THERE IN FRONT OF US WAS THE DALAI LAMA!!

Like right there – in front of us. Like – HOLY SHIT THAT’S HIM right in front of us. It was truly a surreal moment. We all kind of stood there looking at this man on his cushions who was completely unfazed that we starring like deer caught in headlights. I became acutely aware of how embarrassed I was to be in his presence. All I could think to do was give a cheesy wave and smile. He nodded back and smiled. THE DALAI LAMA NODDED BACK. Then one of his handlers realized what was going on and we were asked to make our way back down to the court yard. It was the most unreal yet real moment I have ever experienced. The chances of being in McLeod Ganj when the Dalai Lama is in town are small. The chance of seeing him in the flesh is even smaller. I have no idea why we were so lucky. I guess that’s the point of the journey…

We made our way outside to visit the Tibet Museum, a small photo exhibit that tells the story of the Chinese occupation and subsequent Tibetan exodus. In a small room is a wall lined with photographs of men and woman – monks, students, mothers, fathers – who have all self immolated in protest of China’s occupation of Tibet. Since 2008, 152 people have died by fire in a desperate plea for recognition and compassion from the outside world. On average, one person a month has seen this horrific act as their only way out of an oppressive existence. Since May of this year, the number has increased to one per week. You stand at the wall and weep. We all weep and still, it is never enough tears to extinguish the flames. It is a painful reminder of how we could have done better. We should have done better. Perhaps now is the moment that we can do better. After all, isn’t that the reason we all eventually find our way to McLeod Ganj?