The Lazy Cherub Enigma: That part of India that Isn't Really India but it is.

October 30, 2015

Back when this trip began, I raved about the mountains, Shimla and McLeod-Ganj. Of all the places I had been in India, these two stayed with me and continue to call me back. “The mountains are not India!” Ken tells me. He’s been insistent with that observational retort all though the trip – especially now. I however, see the mountains as the real India. Perhaps a more utopian one but still India. It is India when she is less hot and bothered. It is India with diversification (Tibetans, Nepalese and Indians). It is India that is poor and struggles but more willing to work together to create change. Here in the mountains it isn’t just about people – it is about nature and the planet. Here, for better or for worse – I can get away from the relentless heat and poverty and feel hopeful again. I am away from the crowds and I am not stuck on a train. I am well aware that probably has biased me in every way about this place. But bear with me! I can justify those biases!

Of course, with no trains this means travelling by van along winding mountain roads. Not at all what my stomach ordered and why anyone doing this bit needs a good supply of plain hard crackers and gravol. This is a good time to tell you that plastics are banned in the mountains. YEAH! Well no – that means no bags for vomiting. So when you arrive in Delhi, make sure to grab 45 or so vomit bags from the airplane seat backs. You will need them.

After 8 hours in the vomitorium, we arrive in Gangtok – capital of Sikkim. There is a legend that says the great Buddhist guru Padmasambhlava declared Sikkim “the last utopia on earth.” There is no question this is the most scenic destination in all of India. Alpine forests, undulating valleys, terraced rice paddies and colorful rhododendrons ignite your visual cortex. Everywhere you look is Khangchendzonga – the word’s third highest mountain – looming large and patiently beckoning you to come hither…

Ken is right. In many ways this is not India. Sikkim was uninhabited in any real sense until the 13 century AD when the Lepcha’s migrated here from Myanmar (Burma). Tibetan Buddhists arrived in the 16^th century and installed a “chogyal” (king). Over the ensuring years, Sikkim’s territory expanded and then shrank from wars between Nepal and Bhutan. Sensing weakness, the British bribed Sikkim out of the chogyal’s hands in 1835 in order to gain the militarily advantageous hill station of Darjeeling. Tensions where strong – Tibet considered Sikkim a vassal state and reacted accordingly. There were numerous counter invasions, a stalemate of sorts and then in 1903 Francis Younghusband – along with numerous British Troops – went on an “exploratory expedition” into Tibet. His trespass would set in motion the final bloody confrontation that Britain, and later the Chinese, would use as justification for invasion.

Today the capital, Gangtok, is a city that is perfect to relax in and use as a base for trekking. There is nothing of real importance to see in town but with its laid-back vibe and no-vehicle streets it is a welcome relief to the din and chaos of India proper. The streets are lined with restaurants serving Tibetan and Nepalese cuisine (Momos!!) If you should be so lucky (we were not), you can fuel yourself at “Taste of Tibet". Filled to the brim with monks and college students, it serves the best Tibetan food this side of Tibet. There is even beer! If Ken had been willing to fight a few monks we could have pushed in for seats. Instead, we ate at Chopsticks. Food is ok – there is a big selection of western fare like pastas and chicken burgers. On the downside this is also a Karaoke bar that caters to obnoxiously bad karaoke singers. Everyone on the mic seemed to favor English Language songs written about some Fox King and his mythical adventures. The songs were all done in an Iron Maiden/Gwar genre. And played really loud. Sung by very intoxicated Asian looking men. With musical interludes that had “Dance Revolution” characters on screen demonstrating the sweet dance moves you should be doing during the guitar solos. Yeah – it was as weird as you are imagining it.

If you are looking for things to do, why not check out the cheesy waterfall and viewpoint 4 km out of town? There is a zip line. There is no “zipping” involved. You just get trussed up and allowed to slowly drift to the half waypoint. Then you are locked in place so you can flail around looking like you are out of control while your family and friends spend 20 minutes taking photos. If that isn’t enough you can also play dress up by renting costumes and posing at the waterfall for pics. And if you are an adventurous parent you can send your kid on the zip line while you do the dress up thing and then forget he is there while the attendant takes a lunch break. Kids LOVE to be left in a harness over a waterfall for 45 minutes!

On the northern outskirt of town is the Enchey Gompa – a serene and attractive monastery filled with Tantric deities and mythical murals. It’s heavily guarded by the military. This is the monastery where the exiled Panchem Lama (the Dali Llama’s “second”) is supposed to reside. He however is imprisoned in China and the Chinese "elected" their own spiritual leader to instead. Tense, to say the least because most want the guy in prison to be released while others are like “Nah. We’re good. We’ve got this new guy now.” It is still a serene place to wander and also take in some stunning mountain views.

Next stop: Darjeeling.

I have reached Nirvana.

There is absolutely no question in my mind that I will be back to Darjeeling. Spread out over steep mountain ridges with epic views of the Himalayas, Darjeeling is as close to Shangri La as any place ever can be. If you are not staring at awe inspiring mountains then you are over come by the bewitching green terraces of tea that undulate below you. For many, this is base camp for trekking the Singalila Ridge. It is also home to the world renown Himalayan Mountain Institute founded by Tenzing Norgay. If you are looking to brush up on your extreme advanced mountaineering skills then look no further. And in case you are wondering if this place is really “that good” – then consider this: Every two years this Institute sends up an all Indian/Tibetan climbing team to summit Everest. They always make it. Always. Think about that… How many non-white male Everest summiteers can you even recall let alone name? You can learn all about this at the Mountaineering Museum, which gives an excellent account of Everest and Mallory’s 1922 and 1924 expeditions. There is also the telescope Hitler donated for a German attempt and of course, a section devoted to Tenzing and Hilary’s famous “first.” But really, this museum is about all the other people who climbed and loved Everest. The ones that Tenzing knew would got lost in the historical shuffle of human courage and suffering doing what they are compelled to do “because it is there.”

Darjeeling is, like many hill stations, a place that eschews vehicle traffic except where necessary. So it is a perfect place to stroll and take in both the colonial grandeur of British India merged with that of Tibet and Nepal. Darjeeling before the British was Tibetan ruled until Nepalese Ghurkas gained control in the 17^th century. Today, The Ghurka movement is the dominant political force with a strong push for a separate state and, ideally, full secession. You won’t feel any tensions though as you walk the promenade. Darjeeling feels perpetually festive and carefree. There is a good mix of “high end” eateries and even higher end establishments to stay like the Elgin or the Windamere. (And no, we did not stay in either of those two places but believe me, when I am next in town I am going 5-star all the way because 5 star in Darjeeling is like Downton Abbey for under $200 CDN a night. And after I have trekked my ass off on the Tibetan Plateau and beyond I WANT TO BE PAMPERED!!)

A must do (which we did not) is sunrise at Tiger Hill. If you are here in May/June the chances of getting a clear view of the Himalayan Horizon (Everest, Lhotse, and Makulu waving at you to come over) is high. In our case, it was over cast and raining and I do not do mornings unless Everest promises to be there with a latte. Plus you do have to factor in the 3 hr traffic jam to get back down. Those in our group who did do the get up at 3:45 am sunrise tour said it was not worth it – not in Fall/Winter anyway. Another great view is from the cable car that takes you down the mountain and into a small village. If we had more time, I would have hiked down and took the cable car back up. The trail system through the valleys and tea terraces is a hiker’s dream.

Darjeeling is also famous for its toy train that we will be taking when we leave to get to Varanasi. Stay tuned! Until then, I’ve got a tea tasting to go to and a date with a plate of momos.

Life is tough in the mountains. There is still no decent coffee ;-)